Railay & Koh Phangan

Karst Climbing
and Beach Bungalows

The epicenter of rock climbing in Thailand is the little coastal area of Railay just outside Karbi. Ages ago there was a giant coral reef running though the Railay region, which was eventually transformed into some amazing limestone deposits. These ragged limestone deposits were then geologically uplifted above water where they became exposed through erosion to created some outlandish karst features. The limestone cliffs soar up from the coastline and out of the jungle with ease to heights of several hundred feet. Then the cliff surfaces are enriched with numerous other karst features created by water running down the cliff. The limestone is eroded away and then redeposited to form sweeping flowstone and massive stalactites that hang precipitously from the overhanging cliff faces. It is rock climbing paradise at it finest, with substantial difficulty and no small measure of intimidation.

Mike, Kala, and I took the bus down to Karbi from Bangkok, and then caught a morning boat out to the isolated Railay area [TOP: Mike helping Kala unload from the boat at Railay]. The region is cut off from the rest of the mainland by the massive cliffs, so the only access is via boat. Once there we walked over to the secluded budget area of Tonsai beach and hooked ourselves up with a cozy little bungalow tucked away back in the jungle [BELOW: Kala and Mike walking with a towering limestone cliff in the background]. It was just the peaceful getaway we were hoping for. After getting settled we set about checking out the climbing.

We hiked all around the area and took a gander at a number of the impressive walls. Then we decided to warm up with some relaxed bouldering near 123 Wall. It was immediately obvious that we were in for quite the challenge. After traveling for nearly 4 months I could walk for hours on end with ease, but pulling a confident 5.10 overhang was a different story. I also had virtually no calluses on my hands which made them easy prey for the jagged rock, which would draw blood often. Except on the most well worn routes, Railay abounds in exceptionally sharp rock. Consequently, to an extent climbing in Railay was a leason in humility and the importance of training. You can't just leave the rock for almost 4 months and then jump right back on where you left off.

After our rough first afternoon out on the rock we licked our wounds by celebrating Kala's 21st birthday in style [BELOW TOP: Kala and me on her birthday, photo by Mike Garre]. The three of us indulged in going to the nicest restaurant on Tonsai beach. It was directly under a giant looming cliff face which was spectacularly illuminated, and right next to the ocean [BELOW BOTTOM: The magnificent view from our dinner table]. The location could not have been better and the food was delicious. Wonderfully, it still cost less for the 3 of us than it would for one person in Seattle at a mediocre restaurant. After dinner we casually enjoyed some tropical drinks at the bar next door to round out the memorable evening, as 21st birthday tradition requires.

Over the next several days the three of us set about the worthy task of tackling the challenging rock climbing that towered all around us. I did not get to climb at my usual 5.10 level which was frustrating, but the climbing was of such good quality you could not help but have a blast even on the easier routes. We bouldered along Tonsai wall, which ripped my hands to shreds when I got to ambitious on a challenging problem [BELOW LEFT: Kala bouldering; BELOW RIGHT: Me bouldering, photo by Kala Zimmermann]. Fortunately, climbing tape is amazing and it easily replace my missing chunks of skin so I could still climb. Diamond Cave Wall offered us up some easier routes and was practically the only non-overhanging wall in the region. My favorite was a thin face climb with small hands and some balanced footwork. It was just a 6A on the French scale (roughly a 5.9 on the US scale), but was plenty challenging enough to be fun.


The best area we climbed in though was Wee's Present Wall. It was slightly overhanging and had some cool karst features to climb. I started the area out by leading up an easy face climb with a big karst bulge at the bottom. It was only a 5 on the French scale (roughly a 5.8 on the US scale), but I onsight flashed the climb (lead climbed cleanly without beta) so I felt good about it [BELOW: Mike on the climb I lead climbed]. We also climbed a convoluted 6A on a giant karst waterfall, which was a unique experience with holds all around you and hollow sounding rock. But, my personal favorite climb with a physically demanding 6C (roughly 5.11 on the US scale) face climb that we top roped. It started with a series of powerful lay back moves off a karst fin (or a really wide stem move in Mike's case), which you followed up for 10 feet. Then it transitioned into a demanding face climb with tricky handholds and almost non existent footholds. That went up for another 20 feet, but then there was a final crux section of appearingly polished overhang that I could not deduce any means of ascending. I maxed out just below the upper overhang, but felt good about getting up part of a respectably challenging climb.

Kala and I finished out our climbing in Railay with some scrambling along the coastline and swimming out to a rock tower in the ocean and scaling it. From that rock tower to another was strung a massive highline (similar to a tightrope), which we pondered attempting but ultimately thought better of. Tide was not up quite far enough to ensure you would not hit the rocks below the line if you fell. Overall it was a great couple days of climbing. Throughout I was continually impressed with how strongly Kala climbed and how much she had improved while I was gone. Although Mike and I did not perform to par, we still had fun getting back on the rock. I would love to go back someday when I am back in climbing shape and tackle the tougher walls, and maybe even some deep water soloing. If you are into rock climbing, then Railay should be high on your list of travel destinations.

From Railay we continued our exploration of southern Thailand by heading to Koh Phangan. Koh Phangan is a large island off the coast of Thailand with some wonderful beaches, quiet resort bungalow escapes, and is home to the infamous Full Moon Party. We got there from Railay by an elaborate series of different transportation means; boat, bus, ferry, taxi pickup, and 4x4 truck. By far the most memorable of which was the 4x4 truck ride. From the little fishing village of Chaloklum our resort, the Ocean View Bungalows resort, was a 3 kilometer drive away over some seriously rough and steep road.

When we arrived in Chaloklum it was already after dark and for some reason the resort could not be reached by phone, so we ended up catching a ride with a 4x4 truck going to a different resort. That was great since we just wanted to get there finally, but made complicated by the fact that the truck was severely overloaded. The extended cab was packed full of people and the bed of the truck filled with a mountain of luggage and 4 giant 55 gallon water barrels. The only place for the us to sit, along with 3 other tourists, was on top of the water barrels in the back. So the 6 of us piled on with Mike and I at the rear resting our feet on top of the tailgate, and Kala center just behind us [ABOVE: The 4x4 truck with the barrels we rode on top of]. It worked just fine to start.

The road was bumpy but flat at first and posed no real challenge to staying on. However, then we started to go up a paved hill. It was nice because it was paved, but it kept getting steeper and steeper. I clung white knuckled to the barrel to keep from falling out the back of the truck. I also could not help but think what a disaster it would be if the tailgate came unlatched. I figured for sure we were pushing the design limits of the tailgate with the massive load. If it gave out all 6 people, the 4 water barrels, and the mountain of packs would fly out and go tumbling down the hill in a giant watery mess. Fortunately, the tailgate held, I held on, and the hill eventually topped out.

From there the pavement ended and the road got very bumpy with a whole series of steep hills to go up and down. But, the tailgate had proven itself so I was less concerned. Although, the bumps nearly launched me out of the truck a couple times. Overall it was certainly a rather sketchy means of transport, but it made for a fun cheap thrill ride. I would venture to guess it was still less dangerous than the crazy taxi pickups, which careen along the narrow island roads at much higher speeds. Interestingly, basic public transpotation is actually one of the most dangerous aspect of international travel.

When we finally reached our beach front resort we found Fang already there, and a nice bungalow with soft beds awaiting us. We were all tired from the very full day of transport. The next day we lavished in the relaxing beach lifestyle. We slept in late, went snorkeling for a bit, ate some good food, and just kicked back [ABOVE RIGHT: Kala chilling out on a beach swing]. Both Kala and Fang got their first real experience with snorkeling and enjoyed it despite consuming some salt water. However, the clarity of the water and the quantity of the fish were nothing to compare with Fiji.

That night we went to the Full Moon Party over on the far end of the island, on Hat Rin Nok beach. It was a crazy scene with back to back bars lining the 1/2 mile long beach front. Then every bar was blasting music out toward the ocean and the beach was chalk full of people dancing to the rhythmic beats [ABOVE: Fire dancers at the Full Moon Party] . We danced for hours on end though the night, and lingered to watch the sun come up before heading back to our quiet bungalow.

Once we got back we just lazed around the bungalow and soaked in our last day in paradise [LEFT: Me, Kala, Fang, and Mike at our beach paradise; photo by resort staff]. The next morning Fang flew back to Bangkok for work; and Mike, Kala, and I hopped a ferry and then us bus to escort us back to Bangkok as well. It had been a memorable trip to southern Thailand. The rock climbing had certainly been the highlight for me, but just chilling out on the tropical beach had its perks too.

As always,
-Russ

[Pictures from
RAILAY & KOH PHANGAN]