Mount Cook

Aoraki
The Cloud Piercer

The highest point in New Zealand is only 3,754 meters (12,316 ft) above sea level, but it come in the impressive form of Mt Cook, or Aoraki "The Cloud Piercer" as it is called by the Maori. Located in the heart of the South Island this gem of a peak towers well above its surrounding and looks down over Lake Pukaki. Despite its smaller size compared to the west coast volcanoes in Washington that I have grow accustom to, the peak is covered in jagged cliffs and steep fractured glaciers which give it a substantially more intimidating look.

Without mountaineering gear or a climbing partner I decided to find somewhere I could hike to without having to trek across any glaciers. After looking at a topographic map of the region in the visitor center I decided on hiking a ridge line just opposite the glacial valley that runs up to Mt Cook. I figure that it would give me some amazing views of the mountain and I was not disappointed. Conveniently there was a wilderness hut located right on the top of the ridge line, so I booked a night in the hut and headed for the trail head.

The hiking was very steep and rocky, but with a light pack and a surge of energy from being once again in the mountains I hiked quickly and made it to the Sealy Tarns well under the estimated time. There I took a break and ate a quick lunch. From the tarns the trail degraded into a mess of eroded partial trails weaving amongst each other up the slope. The last section before the ridge line was a significant snow field, but being well softened by the afternoon sun it was easy to scale. Before long I was on the ridge, then it was just a short hike up the ridge line to Muller Hut.

The hut was impressive [RIGHT: Muller Hut]. It was situated just below Mt Oliver overlooking a large glacier below to the Southwest and Mt Cook Village down to the Northeast. It also had spectacular views of Mt Cook to and its shear cliff faced neighbor Mt Shefton. It felt like you were suspended on a platform floating amongst the towering icy peaks. The location could not have been better and the view in every direct was amazing.

After settling in at the hut, I set out for a short side hike to summit the nearby Mt Oliver [TOP: Me on top of Mt Oliver]. I climbed the peak with ease, although some significant exposure kept me on edge. Then I spent a good chunk of time just gazing out over the surrounding mountains from the summit.

That night I had a meager dinner of canned tuna and crackers, after which I played hearts with some interesting guys from Israel; Zvi, Hillel, and Sri [BOTTOM: The four of us while hiking down the next day]. They had just finished their mandatory term of service in the Israel army, and were off traveling before going to university. During the evening the wind picked up to a pulsing gale force and continued all through the night [BELOW: Moon rise over the mountains, Mt Cook is on the left].


The next morning the wind was still roaring away outside. I knew it was bringing in the bad weather forecast for the afternoon, but it was also keeping the snowfields icy and dangerous to cross without crampons. Thus, I spent the morning watching the clouds and testing the snow to determine the ideal time to descend. Too early and the snow field would be treacherous, too late and I would get soaked with rain. I ended up leaving around 10:30am, and my timing could not have been better.

There were still gale force winds as I walked out the ridge line, and they threatened to push me over the edge if I did not keep on my toes. But, as soon as I dropped below the ridge the winds abated some and I found the snowfield to be just soft enough for me to safely and quickly glissade down. From there I hiked fast and I was near to the bottom of the steep slope when the rain started to bear down on me. I picked up the pace and ran once I reached flats with the rain chasing me and the wind pushing me down the trail. I reached the climbers shelter at the trail head just minutes before the wave of rain. My Israeli friends were not so lucky. They got down only 5 minutes after me, but were completely soaked.

Slightly wet and very happy I headed down the road for Queenstown. After having absorbed the wonderful mountain air and scenery I felt rejuvenated. The mountains always are a very spiritual and refreshing place for me, and I only need to return to them to revitalize my spirit. The solitude and separation from society help me to more simply contemplate the complexities of life.

I an excited to return someday and climb Mt Cook. The daunting peak beacons me to scale it heights and look out over the world.

As always,
-Russ

[Pictures from MOUNT COOK]